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winery
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The
estate of Praducello,
a small agricultural place with a
villa and game preserve of the Boiani
family, was
already known in 1500. Then
it passed to the de Rubeis family,
that built the existing Venetian villa
in 1720 and expanded the farming activities.
Domenico
Rubini, who was a silk merchant,
bought the Spessa estate in 1814.
In that period the farm devoted itself
to the cultivation of mulberry trees,
which were used for the silkworm
breeding. The estate was one of the
most important silk producers in Friuli
and had hundred employees, but high-quality
wines were already produced at that
time.
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After a few years, diseases
came from the new world:
oidium first, downy mildew and
phylloxera then. Oidium has
never had disastrous consequences
in the territory of Friuli,
whereas downy mildew and phylloxera
threatened to wipe out viticulture
in the whole region. |
Silkworm breeding and viticulture
were still the main activities of
the
Spessa estate
also when it passed
from Domenico to Pietro Rubini.
A
turning point in the wine production
is to be attributed to Pietro’s
son, whose
name was Domenico.
He began his agricultural studies
at the university of Portici in 1885,
when farming was almost despised,
and thus helped to urge many other
landowners to follow his example.
As a full
Professor of Agronomy at the university
of Udine,
Domenico Rubini was the first who
carried out some of the most
relevant studies into downy mildew
in Friuli and
into pest
control systems.
His lecture notes, which are kept
in the private family records, are
by far the first ones that dealt with
the course, the seriousness and nevertheless
with all the agronomic activities
to control and prevent downy mildew.
He got from the government the post
as a member
of the Consultative Committee for
the phylloxera,
in which was decided that French vines
should be introduced to fight this
parasite. And yet this could cause
two major problems: the first was
the extinction of local vines; the
second was a drop in the wine quality
due to an indiscriminate use of varieties
and clones that were not suited to
soil and climate.
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Therefore Domenico Rubini decided
to create
his own vine nursery
in the farm, where he could
select those clones of Merlot
and Cabernet
Franc that best expressed
the terroir, but his main object
was the propagation of local
vines. So in the old farm registers
you can find Tocai
Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo
Friulano, Picolit, Schioppettino
(called Ribolla Nera or Pokelza
at the time) and other
minor vines, whose cultivation
has unfortunately been abandoned
over the years. |
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The newspapers of
the time reported the many meetings
and conferences that took place in
the whole territory of Eastern Friuli;
they were followed by a large number
of people who wanted to find out about
the latest innovations that had been
tested by Domenico Rubini in his,
as the press of the time called it,
model farm. Moreover, studies into
the territory of Cividale (published
in 1909 in the book “I dintorni
di Cividale – Studio geoagronomico”),
which contained the classification
of the various types of soil and the
individuation of the problems related
to every different agricultural area,
allowed a first
industrial approach to agriculture.
This was a turning point in farming,
that until then had been considered
just a livelihood and not a growth
possibility for a whole area.
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In 1915 he first introduced
tobacco growing in the
province of Udine: the results
were immediately satisfactory
and this cultivation spread
over a vast area of Friuli in
a short time. Domenico worked
for the creation
of wine growers’ cooperatives
and cocoon driers’ cooperatives,
giving a substantial boost to
silkworm breeding. He was very
active in hill reclamations
and in the great reclamation
of the southern territories
of Friuli. He
played a leading role
in the execution of an important
public work, that is the waterworks
of the Poiana, which
still nowadays supplies twelve
villages in the district of
Cividale del Friuli with the
precious element and which was
providential for the Italian
army during the two World Wars.
The area was a theatre of war
in both occasions and underwent
a succession of military occupations:
Villa
Rubini, a little spot
in Europe, was
marked on the military maps
of all armies that were involved
in the conflicts. The
villa still bears the signs
of World War II, when the Italian
army settled in the estate:
the indications of the quarters
of officers, non-commissioned
officers and ranks are still
to be seen on the doors, just
like the
signatures of soldiers
coming from all parts of Italy,
who left their thoughts on the
white walls of garrets and barns.
The pictures
of the time, with prince
Umberto di Savoia on a visit
to the estate, show the backwardness
of a territory that had been
flagellated by two wars, but
also the vine of Tocai Friulano,
which is still present outside
the entrance of the wine cellar
and is witness to this dark
chapter in European history.
The
German army, the transient
camps of the
partisans and the settling
of the
allied forces followed
one another in the villa. |
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As he got back from
detention in Kenya, Ing.
Pietro Rubini drew up a detailed
list of all the damages caused by
troops to the villa, which were compensated
by the American government afterwards.
He was the son of the agronomist Domenico
and installed telephone lines to South
Italy, developed mines in Kenya, created
streets in Colombia, which are still
used, and then he came back to his
estate in Spessa. He brought it back
to its past splendour and, just like
his forefathers, he contributed to
the development of wine-growing in
the territory of Cividale. He was
the founder
and the first president of the Consortium
for the protection of quality wines
from Colli Orientali del Friuli
and sensed that only the development
and the identification of the territory
could improve our wines, bringing
them at the top of world enology.
He was a charter
member of the Ducato dei vini Friulani,
an organisation that awards a prize
to the people who excels in the promotion
and improvement of Friulian wines.
He was an innovator in the wine production
techniques and in the wine marketing,
although this certainly had another
name at the time. He was a pioneer
too, in the sense that the techniques
he used at the end of the 70’s
have been then adopted by other wine-producing
firms between the 80’s and the
90’s, and are almost taken for
granted now. Rubini
was one of the first Friulian trademarks
in the Northamerican and Japanese
markets. It was one of the
most active firms, when these new
wines, which have a long tradition
and are produced in a little region
of northeast Italy, had to be presented
to international markets. It
is one of the oldest family-owned
wineries in Italy and this is a tradition
that has been handed down for over
190 years.
With these bases and still with an
undiminished passion we grow and produce
our wines today. |
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